Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
