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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.